Month: October 2019
Building a DIY Farmhouse Dinner Table


We needed a new dinner table. I wanted to learn about woodworking. This table was built using mostly hand tools and as much traditional joinery as I could figure out. I recognize everything could be improved upon but this being my first project, I’m quite proud. Thanks for checking it out.
Posted in these interests:


Did you know you can haul 10′ lumber in a prius?


Marking the mortises. Unfortunately, I don’t have good pictures of me laminating the legs. There were no untreated 4×4’s so I ripped some 2×8’s and book matched them. They are not great, but I’m happy enough with them.


Hand chopping a mortise.


Dry fitting one of the tenons. The legs lean in 6 degrees on two axes. The mortise hole therefore leans 6 degrees relative to the face of the leg and the shoulder of the tenon leans 6 degrees as well.


First set of legs done.


This took me forever to figure out, longer to mark, and even longer to cut. I messed up several versions of this.


The mortise hole in the top of the leg.


The tenon that sits on the leg.


Cutting the shoulder.


I got this #4 on eBay and tried to restore it myself. It was tough but definitely worth it.


Bought this #7 from a guy on craigslist. It took me a long time to figure out that the #4 is way more useful.


Pile o’ shavings.


Gluing her up!


My workspace. My next project is a bench.


Dry fitting the whole table.


Close up of a through mortise.


Is this called a half lap?


Marking the ends to cut.


This conditioner helped, but not a ton.


Stain.


I love the wipe on poly.


Stain on and 1 coat of poly.


Everything drying for the night.


Final assembly. After much stewing on how to attach the table top, I went with screws straight up from the apron-like cross members. I drilled wide holes (the best that I could with a simple drill bit) and counter sunk the screw heads. I figure if something crazy happens with the change in humidity, I’ll learn a little bit and I can fix it since its my table.
Thanks for looking!
Building a DIY Farmhouse Dinner Table


We needed a new dinner table. I wanted to learn about woodworking. This table was built using mostly hand tools and as much traditional joinery as I could figure out. I recognize everything could be improved upon but this being my first project, I’m quite proud. Thanks for checking it out.
Posted in these interests:


Did you know you can haul 10′ lumber in a prius?


Marking the mortises. Unfortunately, I don’t have good pictures of me laminating the legs. There were no untreated 4×4’s so I ripped some 2×8’s and book matched them. They are not great, but I’m happy enough with them.


Hand chopping a mortise.


Dry fitting one of the tenons. The legs lean in 6 degrees on two axes. The mortise hole therefore leans 6 degrees relative to the face of the leg and the shoulder of the tenon leans 6 degrees as well.


First set of legs done.


This took me forever to figure out, longer to mark, and even longer to cut. I messed up several versions of this.


The mortise hole in the top of the leg.


The tenon that sits on the leg.


Cutting the shoulder.


I got this #4 on eBay and tried to restore it myself. It was tough but definitely worth it.


Bought this #7 from a guy on craigslist. It took me a long time to figure out that the #4 is way more useful.


Pile o’ shavings.


Gluing her up!


My workspace. My next project is a bench.


Dry fitting the whole table.


Close up of a through mortise.


Is this called a half lap?


Marking the ends to cut.


This conditioner helped, but not a ton.


Stain.


I love the wipe on poly.


Stain on and 1 coat of poly.


Everything drying for the night.


Final assembly. After much stewing on how to attach the table top, I went with screws straight up from the apron-like cross members. I drilled wide holes (the best that I could with a simple drill bit) and counter sunk the screw heads. I figure if something crazy happens with the change in humidity, I’ll learn a little bit and I can fix it since its my table.
Thanks for looking!
Building a DIY Farmhouse Dinner Table


We needed a new dinner table. I wanted to learn about woodworking. This table was built using mostly hand tools and as much traditional joinery as I could figure out. I recognize everything could be improved upon but this being my first project, I’m quite proud. Thanks for checking it out.
Posted in these interests:


Did you know you can haul 10′ lumber in a prius?


Marking the mortises. Unfortunately, I don’t have good pictures of me laminating the legs. There were no untreated 4×4’s so I ripped some 2×8’s and book matched them. They are not great, but I’m happy enough with them.


Hand chopping a mortise.


Dry fitting one of the tenons. The legs lean in 6 degrees on two axes. The mortise hole therefore leans 6 degrees relative to the face of the leg and the shoulder of the tenon leans 6 degrees as well.


First set of legs done.


This took me forever to figure out, longer to mark, and even longer to cut. I messed up several versions of this.


The mortise hole in the top of the leg.


The tenon that sits on the leg.


Cutting the shoulder.


I got this #4 on eBay and tried to restore it myself. It was tough but definitely worth it.


Bought this #7 from a guy on craigslist. It took me a long time to figure out that the #4 is way more useful.


Pile o’ shavings.


Gluing her up!


My workspace. My next project is a bench.


Dry fitting the whole table.


Close up of a through mortise.


Is this called a half lap?


Marking the ends to cut.


This conditioner helped, but not a ton.


Stain.


I love the wipe on poly.


Stain on and 1 coat of poly.


Everything drying for the night.


Final assembly. After much stewing on how to attach the table top, I went with screws straight up from the apron-like cross members. I drilled wide holes (the best that I could with a simple drill bit) and counter sunk the screw heads. I figure if something crazy happens with the change in humidity, I’ll learn a little bit and I can fix it since its my table.
Thanks for looking!
Building a DIY Farmhouse Dinner Table


We needed a new dinner table. I wanted to learn about woodworking. This table was built using mostly hand tools and as much traditional joinery as I could figure out. I recognize everything could be improved upon but this being my first project, I’m quite proud. Thanks for checking it out.
Posted in these interests:
Building a DIY Farmhouse Dinner Table
woodworkingdiyPosted in these interests:


Did you know you can haul 10′ lumber in a prius?


Marking the mortises. Unfortunately, I don’t have good pictures of me laminating the legs. There were no untreated 4×4’s so I ripped some 2×8’s and book matched them. They are not great, but I’m happy enough with them.


Hand chopping a mortise.


Dry fitting one of the tenons. The legs lean in 6 degrees on two axes. The mortise hole therefore leans 6 degrees relative to the face of the leg and the shoulder of the tenon leans 6 degrees as well.


First set of legs done.


This took me forever to figure out, longer to mark, and even longer to cut. I messed up several versions of this.


The mortise hole in the top of the leg.


The tenon that sits on the leg.


Cutting the shoulder.


I got this #4 on eBay and tried to restore it myself. It was tough but definitely worth it.


Bought this #7 from a guy on craigslist. It took me a long time to figure out that the #4 is way more useful.


Pile o’ shavings.


Gluing her up!


My workspace. My next project is a bench.


Dry fitting the whole table.


Close up of a through mortise.


Is this called a half lap?


Marking the ends to cut.


This conditioner helped, but not a ton.


Stain.


I love the wipe on poly.


Stain on and 1 coat of poly.


Everything drying for the night.


Final assembly. After much stewing on how to attach the table top, I went with screws straight up from the apron-like cross members. I drilled wide holes (the best that I could with a simple drill bit) and counter sunk the screw heads. I figure if something crazy happens with the change in humidity, I’ll learn a little bit and I can fix it since its my table.
Thanks for looking!


Did you know you can haul 10′ lumber in a prius?


Did you know you can haul 10′ lumber in a prius?


Marking the mortises. Unfortunately, I don’t have good pictures of me laminating the legs. There were no untreated 4×4’s so I ripped some 2×8’s and book matched them. They are not great, but I’m happy enough with them.


Marking the mortises. Unfortunately, I don’t have good pictures of me laminating the legs. There were no untreated 4×4’s so I ripped some 2×8’s and book matched them. They are not great, but I’m happy enough with them.


Hand chopping a mortise.


Hand chopping a mortise.


Dry fitting one of the tenons. The legs lean in 6 degrees on two axes. The mortise hole therefore leans 6 degrees relative to the face of the leg and the shoulder of the tenon leans 6 degrees as well.


Dry fitting one of the tenons. The legs lean in 6 degrees on two axes. The mortise hole therefore leans 6 degrees relative to the face of the leg and the shoulder of the tenon leans 6 degrees as well.


First set of legs done.


First set of legs done.


This took me forever to figure out, longer to mark, and even longer to cut. I messed up several versions of this.


This took me forever to figure out, longer to mark, and even longer to cut. I messed up several versions of this.


The mortise hole in the top of the leg.


The mortise hole in the top of the leg.


The tenon that sits on the leg.


The tenon that sits on the leg.


Cutting the shoulder.


Cutting the shoulder.


I got this #4 on eBay and tried to restore it myself. It was tough but definitely worth it.


I got this #4 on eBay and tried to restore it myself. It was tough but definitely worth it.


Bought this #7 from a guy on craigslist. It took me a long time to figure out that the #4 is way more useful.


Bought this #7 from a guy on craigslist. It took me a long time to figure out that the #4 is way more useful.


Pile o’ shavings.


Pile o’ shavings.


Gluing her up!


Gluing her up!


My workspace. My next project is a bench.


My workspace. My next project is a bench.


Dry fitting the whole table.


Dry fitting the whole table.


Close up of a through mortise.


Close up of a through mortise.


Is this called a half lap?


Is this called a half lap?


Marking the ends to cut.


Marking the ends to cut.


This conditioner helped, but not a ton.


This conditioner helped, but not a ton.


Stain.


Stain.


I love the wipe on poly.


I love the wipe on poly.


Stain on and 1 coat of poly.


Stain on and 1 coat of poly.


Everything drying for the night.


Everything drying for the night.


Final assembly. After much stewing on how to attach the table top, I went with screws straight up from the apron-like cross members. I drilled wide holes (the best that I could with a simple drill bit) and counter sunk the screw heads. I figure if something crazy happens with the change in humidity, I’ll learn a little bit and I can fix it since its my table.
Thanks for looking!


Final assembly. After much stewing on how to attach the table top, I went with screws straight up from the apron-like cross members. I drilled wide holes (the best that I could with a simple drill bit) and counter sunk the screw heads. I figure if something crazy happens with the change in humidity, I’ll learn a little bit and I can fix it since its my table.
Thanks for looking!








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If a particular zone of your sprinkler system isn’t running properly, it’s possible you have a broken sprinkler head. A broken sprinkler head will not only decrease the performance of your sprinkler system, but it will waste a lot of water. This guide will show you how to identify a broken sprinkler head and replace it.
Here’s everything you’ll need to complete this guide:
| Orbit riser extractor | × | 1 | ||
| PVC pipe cutter | × | 1 | ||
| Shovel | × | 1 | ||
| Garden trowel | × | 1 | ||
| Replacement sprinkler head | × | 1 | ||
| Teflon tape | × | 1 | ||
| Orbit cut-off riser | × | 1 |


Sometimes it’s obvious which sprinkler head is broken. In the worst case, you can see a spout of water coming out of the sprinkler head. Yet sometimes it isn’t so obvious.
If you suspect you have a broken sprinkler head it’s likely because a certain zone isn’t working properly. So the first thing you can do is turn on that zone and determine which part of the zone isn’t working. All of the sprinklers in a zone are connected in a line. So if you have one broken head somewhere in the line, all sprinkler heads before it will be working properly and the sprinkler heads after will either be off or have very low pressure.
Sometimes a broken sprinkler may not be easy to spot. There may be no immediate, visible sign of failure. Yet you might be able to hear it and you might be able to see a puddle begin to build up after a while. This is especially obvious when the sprinkler head is near a sidewalk or driveway.


Dig out around the sprinkler head. You will likely only need about 6-8 inches around the head. It’s important that you don’t dig into the pipe underneath the sprinkler so you’ll want to dig carefully. You can use a shovel to break through the sod, but I recommend using a garden trowel to remove the dirt around the sprinkler head. You’ll want to dig deep enough that you can see the main pipe underneath.
With the dirt removed, you can unscrew the sprinkler head. It may be tight, but you should be able to unscrew it with your hand.


Oftentimes, there will be an riser between the main line and the sprinkler head. You can leave this in place as long as it isn’t damaged. If the riser is damaged you can use a riser extractor to remove it.
The riser extractor is fairly simple to use. The fittings are shaped like a cone so you’ll want to use the size that fits inside of the riser about half way. Press down hard and twist to unscrew. The extractor will catch the edge of the riser and turn it loose.
There are two important things to consider when finding a replacement sprinkler head – size and shape. The easiest thing to do is take your broken sprinkler head into your local Lowe’s, Home Depot, or other hardware store and get help finding the correct replacement. Matching the size is fairly easy, but you’ll want to pay attention to the shape as well. Common shapes are full circle, half circle, or quarter circle. As long as you take the broken sprinkler head it will be easy to match.
If your riser was broken you should also buy a cut-off riser. This will allow you to easily place your sprinkler head at the correct height.
If you need the replace the riser you can use the PVC pipe cutter to cut the cut-off riser to the correct height. Go ahead and screw the pipe into the sprinkler head first. Wrap the threads of the pipe with teflon tape before screwing it in. This will help prevent leakage.
If you didn’t need to replace the riser or if a riser wasn’t required, you can screw in the sprinkler head in exactly where you unscrewed the broken head.
Fill in the dirt around the sprinkler head and pack it tightly. If you removed any sod place it back on top.
With the sprinkler head replaced you should find your sprinkler system working perfectly!


If a particular zone of your sprinkler system isn’t running properly, it’s possible you have a broken sprinkler head. A broken sprinkler head will not only decrease the performance of your sprinkler system, but it will waste a lot of water. This guide will show you how to identify a broken sprinkler head and replace it.
Here’s everything you’ll need to complete this guide:
| Orbit riser extractor | × | 1 | ||
| PVC pipe cutter | × | 1 | ||
| Shovel | × | 1 | ||
| Garden trowel | × | 1 | ||
| Replacement sprinkler head | × | 1 | ||
| Teflon tape | × | 1 | ||
| Orbit cut-off riser | × | 1 |


Sometimes it’s obvious which sprinkler head is broken. In the worst case, you can see a spout of water coming out of the sprinkler head. Yet sometimes it isn’t so obvious.
If you suspect you have a broken sprinkler head it’s likely because a certain zone isn’t working properly. So the first thing you can do is turn on that zone and determine which part of the zone isn’t working. All of the sprinklers in a zone are connected in a line. So if you have one broken head somewhere in the line, all sprinkler heads before it will be working properly and the sprinkler heads after will either be off or have very low pressure.
Sometimes a broken sprinkler may not be easy to spot. There may be no immediate, visible sign of failure. Yet you might be able to hear it and you might be able to see a puddle begin to build up after a while. This is especially obvious when the sprinkler head is near a sidewalk or driveway.


Dig out around the sprinkler head. You will likely only need about 6-8 inches around the head. It’s important that you don’t dig into the pipe underneath the sprinkler so you’ll want to dig carefully. You can use a shovel to break through the sod, but I recommend using a garden trowel to remove the dirt around the sprinkler head. You’ll want to dig deep enough that you can see the main pipe underneath.
With the dirt removed, you can unscrew the sprinkler head. It may be tight, but you should be able to unscrew it with your hand.


Oftentimes, there will be an riser between the main line and the sprinkler head. You can leave this in place as long as it isn’t damaged. If the riser is damaged you can use a riser extractor to remove it.
The riser extractor is fairly simple to use. The fittings are shaped like a cone so you’ll want to use the size that fits inside of the riser about half way. Press down hard and twist to unscrew. The extractor will catch the edge of the riser and turn it loose.
There are two important things to consider when finding a replacement sprinkler head – size and shape. The easiest thing to do is take your broken sprinkler head into your local Lowe’s, Home Depot, or other hardware store and get help finding the correct replacement. Matching the size is fairly easy, but you’ll want to pay attention to the shape as well. Common shapes are full circle, half circle, or quarter circle. As long as you take the broken sprinkler head it will be easy to match.
If your riser was broken you should also buy a cut-off riser. This will allow you to easily place your sprinkler head at the correct height.
If you need the replace the riser you can use the PVC pipe cutter to cut the cut-off riser to the correct height. Go ahead and screw the pipe into the sprinkler head first. Wrap the threads of the pipe with teflon tape before screwing it in. This will help prevent leakage.
If you didn’t need to replace the riser or if a riser wasn’t required, you can screw in the sprinkler head in exactly where you unscrewed the broken head.
Fill in the dirt around the sprinkler head and pack it tightly. If you removed any sod place it back on top.
With the sprinkler head replaced you should find your sprinkler system working perfectly!


If a particular zone of your sprinkler system isn’t running properly, it’s possible you have a broken sprinkler head. A broken sprinkler head will not only decrease the performance of your sprinkler system, but it will waste a lot of water. This guide will show you how to identify a broken sprinkler head and replace it.
Here’s everything you’ll need to complete this guide:
| Orbit riser extractor | × | 1 | ||
| PVC pipe cutter | × | 1 | ||
| Shovel | × | 1 | ||
| Garden trowel | × | 1 | ||
| Replacement sprinkler head | × | 1 | ||
| Teflon tape | × | 1 | ||
| Orbit cut-off riser | × | 1 |


Sometimes it’s obvious which sprinkler head is broken. In the worst case, you can see a spout of water coming out of the sprinkler head. Yet sometimes it isn’t so obvious.
If you suspect you have a broken sprinkler head it’s likely because a certain zone isn’t working properly. So the first thing you can do is turn on that zone and determine which part of the zone isn’t working. All of the sprinklers in a zone are connected in a line. So if you have one broken head somewhere in the line, all sprinkler heads before it will be working properly and the sprinkler heads after will either be off or have very low pressure.
Sometimes a broken sprinkler may not be easy to spot. There may be no immediate, visible sign of failure. Yet you might be able to hear it and you might be able to see a puddle begin to build up after a while. This is especially obvious when the sprinkler head is near a sidewalk or driveway.


Dig out around the sprinkler head. You will likely only need about 6-8 inches around the head. It’s important that you don’t dig into the pipe underneath the sprinkler so you’ll want to dig carefully. You can use a shovel to break through the sod, but I recommend using a garden trowel to remove the dirt around the sprinkler head. You’ll want to dig deep enough that you can see the main pipe underneath.
With the dirt removed, you can unscrew the sprinkler head. It may be tight, but you should be able to unscrew it with your hand.


Oftentimes, there will be an riser between the main line and the sprinkler head. You can leave this in place as long as it isn’t damaged. If the riser is damaged you can use a riser extractor to remove it.
The riser extractor is fairly simple to use. The fittings are shaped like a cone so you’ll want to use the size that fits inside of the riser about half way. Press down hard and twist to unscrew. The extractor will catch the edge of the riser and turn it loose.
There are two important things to consider when finding a replacement sprinkler head – size and shape. The easiest thing to do is take your broken sprinkler head into your local Lowe’s, Home Depot, or other hardware store and get help finding the correct replacement. Matching the size is fairly easy, but you’ll want to pay attention to the shape as well. Common shapes are full circle, half circle, or quarter circle. As long as you take the broken sprinkler head it will be easy to match.
If your riser was broken you should also buy a cut-off riser. This will allow you to easily place your sprinkler head at the correct height.
If you need the replace the riser you can use the PVC pipe cutter to cut the cut-off riser to the correct height. Go ahead and screw the pipe into the sprinkler head first. Wrap the threads of the pipe with teflon tape before screwing it in. This will help prevent leakage.
If you didn’t need to replace the riser or if a riser wasn’t required, you can screw in the sprinkler head in exactly where you unscrewed the broken head.
Fill in the dirt around the sprinkler head and pack it tightly. If you removed any sod place it back on top.
With the sprinkler head replaced you should find your sprinkler system working perfectly!


If a particular zone of your sprinkler system isn’t running properly, it’s possible you have a broken sprinkler head. A broken sprinkler head will not only decrease the performance of your sprinkler system, but it will waste a lot of water. This guide will show you how to identify a broken sprinkler head and replace it.
Here’s everything you’ll need to complete this guide:
| Orbit riser extractor | × | 1 | ||
| PVC pipe cutter | × | 1 | ||
| Shovel | × | 1 | ||
| Garden trowel | × | 1 | ||
| Replacement sprinkler head | × | 1 | ||
| Teflon tape | × | 1 | ||
| Orbit cut-off riser | × | 1 |
How to Fix and Replace a Broken Sprinkler Head
homediyHere’s everything you’ll need to complete this guide:
| Orbit riser extractor | × | 1 | ||
| PVC pipe cutter | × | 1 | ||
| Shovel | × | 1 | ||
| Garden trowel | × | 1 | ||
| Replacement sprinkler head | × | 1 | ||
| Teflon tape | × | 1 | ||
| Orbit cut-off riser | × | 1 |
| Orbit riser extractor | × | 1 | ||
| PVC pipe cutter | × | 1 | ||
| Shovel | × | 1 | ||
| Garden trowel | × | 1 | ||
| Replacement sprinkler head | × | 1 | ||
| Teflon tape | × | 1 | ||
| Orbit cut-off riser | × | 1 |


Sometimes it’s obvious which sprinkler head is broken. In the worst case, you can see a spout of water coming out of the sprinkler head. Yet sometimes it isn’t so obvious.
If you suspect you have a broken sprinkler head it’s likely because a certain zone isn’t working properly. So the first thing you can do is turn on that zone and determine which part of the zone isn’t working. All of the sprinklers in a zone are connected in a line. So if you have one broken head somewhere in the line, all sprinkler heads before it will be working properly and the sprinkler heads after will either be off or have very low pressure.
Sometimes a broken sprinkler may not be easy to spot. There may be no immediate, visible sign of failure. Yet you might be able to hear it and you might be able to see a puddle begin to build up after a while. This is especially obvious when the sprinkler head is near a sidewalk or driveway.


Dig out around the sprinkler head. You will likely only need about 6-8 inches around the head. It’s important that you don’t dig into the pipe underneath the sprinkler so you’ll want to dig carefully. You can use a shovel to break through the sod, but I recommend using a garden trowel to remove the dirt around the sprinkler head. You’ll want to dig deep enough that you can see the main pipe underneath.
With the dirt removed, you can unscrew the sprinkler head. It may be tight, but you should be able to unscrew it with your hand.


Oftentimes, there will be an riser between the main line and the sprinkler head. You can leave this in place as long as it isn’t damaged. If the riser is damaged you can use a riser extractor to remove it.
The riser extractor is fairly simple to use. The fittings are shaped like a cone so you’ll want to use the size that fits inside of the riser about half way. Press down hard and twist to unscrew. The extractor will catch the edge of the riser and turn it loose.
There are two important things to consider when finding a replacement sprinkler head – size and shape. The easiest thing to do is take your broken sprinkler head into your local Lowe’s, Home Depot, or other hardware store and get help finding the correct replacement. Matching the size is fairly easy, but you’ll want to pay attention to the shape as well. Common shapes are full circle, half circle, or quarter circle. As long as you take the broken sprinkler head it will be easy to match.
If your riser was broken you should also buy a cut-off riser. This will allow you to easily place your sprinkler head at the correct height.
If you need the replace the riser you can use the PVC pipe cutter to cut the cut-off riser to the correct height. Go ahead and screw the pipe into the sprinkler head first. Wrap the threads of the pipe with teflon tape before screwing it in. This will help prevent leakage.
If you didn’t need to replace the riser or if a riser wasn’t required, you can screw in the sprinkler head in exactly where you unscrewed the broken head.
Fill in the dirt around the sprinkler head and pack it tightly. If you removed any sod place it back on top.
With the sprinkler head replaced you should find your sprinkler system working perfectly!


Sometimes it’s obvious which sprinkler head is broken. In the worst case, you can see a spout of water coming out of the sprinkler head. Yet sometimes it isn’t so obvious.
If you suspect you have a broken sprinkler head it’s likely because a certain zone isn’t working properly. So the first thing you can do is turn on that zone and determine which part of the zone isn’t working. All of the sprinklers in a zone are connected in a line. So if you have one broken head somewhere in the line, all sprinkler heads before it will be working properly and the sprinkler heads after will either be off or have very low pressure.
Sometimes a broken sprinkler may not be easy to spot. There may be no immediate, visible sign of failure. Yet you might be able to hear it and you might be able to see a puddle begin to build up after a while. This is especially obvious when the sprinkler head is near a sidewalk or driveway.


Sometimes it’s obvious which sprinkler head is broken. In the worst case, you can see a spout of water coming out of the sprinkler head. Yet sometimes it isn’t so obvious.
If you suspect you have a broken sprinkler head it’s likely because a certain zone isn’t working properly. So the first thing you can do is turn on that zone and determine which part of the zone isn’t working. All of the sprinklers in a zone are connected in a line. So if you have one broken head somewhere in the line, all sprinkler heads before it will be working properly and the sprinkler heads after will either be off or have very low pressure.
Sometimes a broken sprinkler may not be easy to spot. There may be no immediate, visible sign of failure. Yet you might be able to hear it and you might be able to see a puddle begin to build up after a while. This is especially obvious when the sprinkler head is near a sidewalk or driveway.
Identify the broken sprinkler head


Dig out around the sprinkler head. You will likely only need about 6-8 inches around the head. It’s important that you don’t dig into the pipe underneath the sprinkler so you’ll want to dig carefully. You can use a shovel to break through the sod, but I recommend using a garden trowel to remove the dirt around the sprinkler head. You’ll want to dig deep enough that you can see the main pipe underneath.


Dig out around the sprinkler head. You will likely only need about 6-8 inches around the head. It’s important that you don’t dig into the pipe underneath the sprinkler so you’ll want to dig carefully. You can use a shovel to break through the sod, but I recommend using a garden trowel to remove the dirt around the sprinkler head. You’ll want to dig deep enough that you can see the main pipe underneath.
Dig out around the sprinkler head
With the dirt removed, you can unscrew the sprinkler head. It may be tight, but you should be able to unscrew it with your hand.
With the dirt removed, you can unscrew the sprinkler head. It may be tight, but you should be able to unscrew it with your hand.
Unscrew the sprinkler head


Oftentimes, there will be an riser between the main line and the sprinkler head. You can leave this in place as long as it isn’t damaged. If the riser is damaged you can use a riser extractor to remove it.
The riser extractor is fairly simple to use. The fittings are shaped like a cone so you’ll want to use the size that fits inside of the riser about half way. Press down hard and twist to unscrew. The extractor will catch the edge of the riser and turn it loose.


Oftentimes, there will be an riser between the main line and the sprinkler head. You can leave this in place as long as it isn’t damaged. If the riser is damaged you can use a riser extractor to remove it.
The riser extractor is fairly simple to use. The fittings are shaped like a cone so you’ll want to use the size that fits inside of the riser about half way. Press down hard and twist to unscrew. The extractor will catch the edge of the riser and turn it loose.
Remove the riser, if necessary
There are two important things to consider when finding a replacement sprinkler head – size and shape. The easiest thing to do is take your broken sprinkler head into your local Lowe’s, Home Depot, or other hardware store and get help finding the correct replacement. Matching the size is fairly easy, but you’ll want to pay attention to the shape as well. Common shapes are full circle, half circle, or quarter circle. As long as you take the broken sprinkler head it will be easy to match.
If your riser was broken you should also buy a cut-off riser. This will allow you to easily place your sprinkler head at the correct height.
There are two important things to consider when finding a replacement sprinkler head – size and shape. The easiest thing to do is take your broken sprinkler head into your local Lowe’s, Home Depot, or other hardware store and get help finding the correct replacement. Matching the size is fairly easy, but you’ll want to pay attention to the shape as well. Common shapes are full circle, half circle, or quarter circle. As long as you take the broken sprinkler head it will be easy to match.
If your riser was broken you should also buy a cut-off riser. This will allow you to easily place your sprinkler head at the correct height.
Find a replacement sprinkler head
If you need the replace the riser you can use the PVC pipe cutter to cut the cut-off riser to the correct height. Go ahead and screw the pipe into the sprinkler head first. Wrap the threads of the pipe with teflon tape before screwing it in. This will help prevent leakage.
If you didn’t need to replace the riser or if a riser wasn’t required, you can screw in the sprinkler head in exactly where you unscrewed the broken head.
If you need the replace the riser you can use the PVC pipe cutter to cut the cut-off riser to the correct height. Go ahead and screw the pipe into the sprinkler head first. Wrap the threads of the pipe with teflon tape before screwing it in. This will help prevent leakage.
If you didn’t need to replace the riser or if a riser wasn’t required, you can screw in the sprinkler head in exactly where you unscrewed the broken head.
Screw in the new sprinkler head
Fill in the dirt around the sprinkler head and pack it tightly. If you removed any sod place it back on top.
Fill in the dirt around the sprinkler head and pack it tightly. If you removed any sod place it back on top.
Fill in the dirt around the sprinkler head
With the sprinkler head replaced you should find your sprinkler system working perfectly!
With the sprinkler head replaced you should find your sprinkler system working perfectly!
Test your system


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Want to support Howchoo? When you buy a tool or material through one of our Amazon links, we earn a small commission as an Amazon Associate.
Want to support Howchoo? When you buy a tool or material through one of our Amazon links, we earn a small commission as an Amazon Associate.


Your AT&T phone might work with a different carrier. Some devices can be unlocked to work with other cell phone service providers. There are a few things to check and a form to submit before you can try unlocking your device.
Your AT&T phone needs to meet a specific list of requirements before it can be unlocked to use with another carrier. Some of the requirements include:
- The device hasn’t been reported as lost or stolen.
- There are no unpaid fees on your AT&T account.
- The device isn’t active on a different AT&T account.
Review the full list of requirements before proceeding. If your device is compatible, you can request an unlock code directly from AT&T.


The unlock code can be requested using the device unlock form on the AT&T website. Visit the device unlock page. You should see a blank form.
Fill out the form and submit the request. When the unlock request has been processed, AT&T will send an email with confirmation.
It may take up to 2 business days before you receive a separate email with the unlock code.
If you run into trouble or have specific questions, be sure to reach out to AT&T. This phone unlock support article is a great place to start.


Your AT&T phone might work with a different carrier. Some devices can be unlocked to work with other cell phone service providers. There are a few things to check and a form to submit before you can try unlocking your device.
Your AT&T phone needs to meet a specific list of requirements before it can be unlocked to use with another carrier. Some of the requirements include:
- The device hasn’t been reported as lost or stolen.
- There are no unpaid fees on your AT&T account.
- The device isn’t active on a different AT&T account.
Review the full list of requirements before proceeding. If your device is compatible, you can request an unlock code directly from AT&T.


The unlock code can be requested using the device unlock form on the AT&T website. Visit the device unlock page. You should see a blank form.
Fill out the form and submit the request. When the unlock request has been processed, AT&T will send an email with confirmation.
It may take up to 2 business days before you receive a separate email with the unlock code.
If you run into trouble or have specific questions, be sure to reach out to AT&T. This phone unlock support article is a great place to start.


Your AT&T phone might work with a different carrier. Some devices can be unlocked to work with other cell phone service providers. There are a few things to check and a form to submit before you can try unlocking your device.
Your AT&T phone needs to meet a specific list of requirements before it can be unlocked to use with another carrier. Some of the requirements include:
- The device hasn’t been reported as lost or stolen.
- There are no unpaid fees on your AT&T account.
- The device isn’t active on a different AT&T account.
Review the full list of requirements before proceeding. If your device is compatible, you can request an unlock code directly from AT&T.


The unlock code can be requested using the device unlock form on the AT&T website. Visit the device unlock page. You should see a blank form.
Fill out the form and submit the request. When the unlock request has been processed, AT&T will send an email with confirmation.
It may take up to 2 business days before you receive a separate email with the unlock code.
If you run into trouble or have specific questions, be sure to reach out to AT&T. This phone unlock support article is a great place to start.


Your AT&T phone might work with a different carrier. Some devices can be unlocked to work with other cell phone service providers. There are a few things to check and a form to submit before you can try unlocking your device.
How to Unlock an AT&T Phone or Device
wirelessattYour AT&T phone needs to meet a specific list of requirements before it can be unlocked to use with another carrier. Some of the requirements include:
- The device hasn’t been reported as lost or stolen.
- There are no unpaid fees on your AT&T account.
- The device isn’t active on a different AT&T account.
Review the full list of requirements before proceeding. If your device is compatible, you can request an unlock code directly from AT&T.


The unlock code can be requested using the device unlock form on the AT&T website. Visit the device unlock page. You should see a blank form.
Fill out the form and submit the request. When the unlock request has been processed, AT&T will send an email with confirmation.
It may take up to 2 business days before you receive a separate email with the unlock code.
If you run into trouble or have specific questions, be sure to reach out to AT&T. This phone unlock support article is a great place to start.
Your AT&T phone needs to meet a specific list of requirements before it can be unlocked to use with another carrier. Some of the requirements include:
- The device hasn’t been reported as lost or stolen.
- There are no unpaid fees on your AT&T account.
- The device isn’t active on a different AT&T account.
Review the full list of requirements before proceeding. If your device is compatible, you can request an unlock code directly from AT&T.
Your AT&T phone needs to meet a specific list of requirements before it can be unlocked to use with another carrier. Some of the requirements include:
- The device hasn’t been reported as lost or stolen.
- There are no unpaid fees on your AT&T account.
- The device isn’t active on a different AT&T account.
Review the full list of requirements before proceeding. If your device is compatible, you can request an unlock code directly from AT&T.
Make sure your phone meets the requirements


The unlock code can be requested using the device unlock form on the AT&T website. Visit the device unlock page. You should see a blank form.


The unlock code can be requested using the device unlock form on the AT&T website. Visit the device unlock page. You should see a blank form.
Access the device unlock form
Fill out the form and submit the request. When the unlock request has been processed, AT&T will send an email with confirmation.
It may take up to 2 business days before you receive a separate email with the unlock code.
Fill out the form and submit the request. When the unlock request has been processed, AT&T will send an email with confirmation.
It may take up to 2 business days before you receive a separate email with the unlock code.
Submit the form
If you run into trouble or have specific questions, be sure to reach out to AT&T. This phone unlock support article is a great place to start.
If you run into trouble or have specific questions, be sure to reach out to AT&T. This phone unlock support article is a great place to start.
Additional help
Want to support Howchoo? When you buy a tool or material through one of our Amazon links, we earn a small commission as an Amazon Associate.
Want to support Howchoo? When you buy a tool or material through one of our Amazon links, we earn a small commission as an Amazon Associate.
Want to support Howchoo? When you buy a tool or material through one of our Amazon links, we earn a small commission as an Amazon Associate.
We’re hiring. Write for Howchoo
We’re hiring. Write for Howchoo
We’re hiring. Write for Howchoo
We’re hiring. Write for Howchoo
Linking a CSS file to an HTML file allows you update the styling of the HTML document by editing the CSS file. This is especially useful if, for example, you have hundreds of pages that you’d like to style from one central location. Using CSS, you can com
If you have multiple HTML files, you will need to complete these steps for each one.
In your HTML document, paste the following between the opening and closing brackets.
^ The href=”X” denotes the location of your file. There’s a special consideration to make when denoting this location:
^ The denotation above suggests that inside of the directory containing your HTML file is a directory called “css” which contains a file called “style.css”.
^ The denotation above (using a slash) suggests that the file style.css is located inside a directory in your root called “css”.
^ The denotation above is a valid use of an absolute URL.
Save your HTML file and you’re done!
Linking a CSS file to an HTML file allows you update the styling of the HTML document by editing the CSS file. This is especially useful if, for example, you have hundreds of pages that you’d like to style from one central location. Using CSS, you can com
If you have multiple HTML files, you will need to complete these steps for each one.
In your HTML document, paste the following between the opening and closing brackets.
^ The href=”X” denotes the location of your file. There’s a special consideration to make when denoting this location:
^ The denotation above suggests that inside of the directory containing your HTML file is a directory called “css” which contains a file called “style.css”.
^ The denotation above (using a slash) suggests that the file style.css is located inside a directory in your root called “css”.
^ The denotation above is a valid use of an absolute URL.
Save your HTML file and you’re done!
Linking a CSS file to an HTML file allows you update the styling of the HTML document by editing the CSS file. This is especially useful if, for example, you have hundreds of pages that you’d like to style from one central location. Using CSS, you can com
If you have multiple HTML files, you will need to complete these steps for each one.
In your HTML document, paste the following between the opening and closing brackets.
^ The href=”X” denotes the location of your file. There’s a special consideration to make when denoting this location:
^ The denotation above suggests that inside of the directory containing your HTML file is a directory called “css” which contains a file called “style.css”.
^ The denotation above (using a slash) suggests that the file style.css is located inside a directory in your root called “css”.
^ The denotation above is a valid use of an absolute URL.
Save your HTML file and you’re done!
Linking a CSS file to an HTML file allows you update the styling of the HTML document by editing the CSS file. This is especially useful if, for example, you have hundreds of pages that you’d like to style from one central location. Using CSS, you can com
How to Attach a CSS Stylesheet to an HTML Document
wwwhtmlIf you have multiple HTML files, you will need to complete these steps for each one.
In your HTML document, paste the following between the opening and closing brackets.
^ The href=”X” denotes the location of your file. There’s a special consideration to make when denoting this location:
^ The denotation above suggests that inside of the directory containing your HTML file is a directory called “css” which contains a file called “style.css”.
^ The denotation above (using a slash) suggests that the file style.css is located inside a directory in your root called “css”.
^ The denotation above is a valid use of an absolute URL.
Save your HTML file and you’re done!
If you have multiple HTML files, you will need to complete these steps for each one.
If you have multiple HTML files, you will need to complete these steps for each one.
Open your HTML file
In your HTML document, paste the following between the opening and closing brackets.
^ The href=”X” denotes the location of your file. There’s a special consideration to make when denoting this location:
^ The denotation above suggests that inside of the directory containing your HTML file is a directory called “css” which contains a file called “style.css”.
^ The denotation above (using a slash) suggests that the file style.css is located inside a directory in your root called “css”.
^ The denotation above is a valid use of an absolute URL.
In your HTML document, paste the following between the opening and closing brackets.
^ The href=”X” denotes the location of your file. There’s a special consideration to make when denoting this location:
^ The denotation above suggests that inside of the directory containing your HTML file is a directory called “css” which contains a file called “style.css”.
^ The denotation above (using a slash) suggests that the file style.css is located inside a directory in your root called “css”.
^ The denotation above is a valid use of an absolute URL.
Paste the following in the document’s head
Save your HTML file and you’re done!
Save your HTML file and you’re done!
Save your HTML file






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When learning Vim, it’s nice to have a cheat sheet to refer to.
Enter insert mode:
i
In insert mode, you can type and insert text as you are used to with most other text editors.
Insert text after current character:
a
Move to the beginning of the document:
gg
Move to the end of the document:
G
Move to the top of the screen:
H
Move to the bottom of the screen:
B
Move to the middle of the screen:
M
Move one full screen forwards:
f
Move one full screen backwards:
b
Move one half screen forwards:
d
Move on half screen backwards:
u
Move to the beginning of the current line:
0
Move to the end of the current line:
$
Delete character forward:
x
Delete character backward:
X
Delete entire line of text:
dd
Delete n lines of text (n is any positive integer):
n dd
To change the current word:
cw
To change the current letter:
cl
When learning Vim, it’s nice to have a cheat sheet to refer to.
Enter insert mode:
i
In insert mode, you can type and insert text as you are used to with most other text editors.
Insert text after current character:
a
Move to the beginning of the document:
gg
Move to the end of the document:
G
Move to the top of the screen:
H
Move to the bottom of the screen:
B
Move to the middle of the screen:
M
Move one full screen forwards:
f
Move one full screen backwards:
b
Move one half screen forwards:
d
Move on half screen backwards:
u
Move to the beginning of the current line:
0
Move to the end of the current line:
$
Delete character forward:
x
Delete character backward:
X
Delete entire line of text:
dd
Delete n lines of text (n is any positive integer):
n dd
To change the current word:
cw
To change the current letter:
cl
When learning Vim, it’s nice to have a cheat sheet to refer to.
Enter insert mode:
i
In insert mode, you can type and insert text as you are used to with most other text editors.
Insert text after current character:
a
Move to the beginning of the document:
gg
Move to the end of the document:
G
Move to the top of the screen:
H
Move to the bottom of the screen:
B
Move to the middle of the screen:
M
Move one full screen forwards:
f
Move one full screen backwards:
b
Move one half screen forwards:
d
Move on half screen backwards:
u
Move to the beginning of the current line:
0
Move to the end of the current line:
$
Delete character forward:
x
Delete character backward:
X
Delete entire line of text:
dd
Delete n lines of text (n is any positive integer):
n dd
To change the current word:
cw
To change the current letter:
cl
When learning Vim, it’s nice to have a cheat sheet to refer to.
Vim Cheat Sheet for Beginners
vimwebdev| vim | × | 1 |
Enter insert mode:
i
In insert mode, you can type and insert text as you are used to with most other text editors.
Insert text after current character:
a
Move to the beginning of the document:
gg
Move to the end of the document:
G
Move to the top of the screen:
H
Move to the bottom of the screen:
B
Move to the middle of the screen:
M
Move one full screen forwards:
f
Move one full screen backwards:
b
Move one half screen forwards:
d
Move on half screen backwards:
u
Move to the beginning of the current line:
0
Move to the end of the current line:
$
Delete character forward:
x
Delete character backward:
X
Delete entire line of text:
dd
Delete n lines of text (n is any positive integer):
n dd
To change the current word:
cw
To change the current letter:
cl
Enter insert mode:
i
In insert mode, you can type and insert text as you are used to with most other text editors.
Insert text after current character:
a
Enter insert mode:
i
In insert mode, you can type and insert text as you are used to with most other text editors.
Insert text after current character:
a
Inserting text
Exit insert mode and return to command mode
Move to the beginning of the document:
gg
Move to the end of the document:
G
Move to the top of the screen:
H
Move to the bottom of the screen:
B
Move to the middle of the screen:
M
Move one full screen forwards:
f
Move one full screen backwards:
b
Move one half screen forwards:
d
Move on half screen backwards:
u
Move to the beginning of the current line:
0
Move to the end of the current line:
$
Move to the beginning of the document:
gg
Move to the end of the document:
G
Move to the top of the screen:
H
Move to the bottom of the screen:
B
Move to the middle of the screen:
M
Move one full screen forwards:
f
Move one full screen backwards:
b
Move one half screen forwards:
d
Move on half screen backwards:
u
Move to the beginning of the current line:
0
Move to the end of the current line:
$
Navigation
Delete character forward:
x
Delete character backward:
X
Delete entire line of text:
dd
Delete n lines of text (n is any positive integer):
n dd
To change the current word:
cw
To change the current letter:
cl
Delete character forward:
x
Delete character backward:
X
Delete entire line of text:
dd
Delete n lines of text (n is any positive integer):
n dd
To change the current word:
cw
To change the current letter:
cl
Text manipulation
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