On the main screen, turn the knob to “Menu” and depress the button to select.

From the list of control options, select “Prepare”.

Since we want to load new filament, we’ll select this option.

The Kobra Go will notify you that the nozzle is too cold to load new filament, so select the checkmark and allow the printer to bring itself to temperature.

Just let the printer do its thing, this should only take a couple of minutes.

The screen will notify you when it’s time to load the filament.

The tube acts as a handy guide. make sure that you use your wire cutters to snip the filament at a sharp angle, this makes it easier to slide it in. A little bit of pressure will be needed—you can depress the button on the side of the loader to allow the filament to more easily slide into place.

You’ll know you’re finished when the machine catches the filament, and it starts moving without you pressing it.

Insert your memory card that came with the Kobra Go.

The card comes preloaded with an owl model to test things out on.

As the print begins, you can use the knob to select the Z offset control (depress the button to select and turn to either side to move the nozzle up or down). It’s easy to ensure that your nozzle is the perfect height from the printer bed.

The Anycubic Kobra Go does a great job turning out models with all the most common filament types. Try it yourself now!

The Kobra Go comes well packaged in a secure box, and it’s undeniably a pretty printer. Anycubic has a gift for classy design choices, and the Kobra Go is no exception.

Before starting, save yourself some trouble and carefully organize all the various pieces. Make sure you have everything! In the kit I received, some of the screws were mislabeled, but I was still able to easily complete the build process. By making sure that everything was in place beforehand, it kept me from worrying when I reached the point where the instructions and my on-hand components differed!

• Spring washer x 4 (#26)
• M5x25 screws x2 (#23)
• M5x45 x2 (#25)

Don’t forget to put the washers on the screw before tightening them!

The profiles are simple enough to install, but watch out for the wires beneath the left profile when you’re putting in the screw. One screw is very close to the wires, and though they’re well insulated, you still don’t want to risk damaging them.

Mmm, that’s a nice profile. Both flat edges will be facing the front of the printer.

Collect the Z-axis motor kit items.

• The motor
• M4x15 screws x2 (#20)

It fits in easily behind the profile, just line it up and screw it in.

Get out the screw and the anti-backlash nut.

You want to make sure that the anti-backlash nut is fully compressed before putting it on the screw. This requires a fair bit of finger strength! Depress the top of the nut into the main part of the nut’s body, then slot onto the screw. When it’s on, the top of the nut will remain slightly more depressed than it could be when off the screw, even after you stop squeezing it.

You’ll slot the opposite end of the screw from the anti-backlash nut into the coupling of the motor. Loosen the locking screw, press the driver screw down into position, then tighten the top locking screw again to make sure that the driver screw is held in place.

• Spring washer 2 x3 (#27)
• M4x16 x5 screw (#21)

The kit doesn’t separate out the parts quite as well as I would have liked, and the instructions were a bit complicated (solely due to organization and readability). For this section, you’ll be using just three of the #21 screws.

Attaching is easy, just thread the washer onto the screws and attach. Two screws for the XE-axis kit and one screw for the Z-axis passive block.

One screw gets the passive block into position. The two large rollers should be on the outside of the strut.

The belt slots into the strut, teeth down, so that it can interface with the gear.

You’ll take the printer head and slide it onto the strut from the end nearest the passive block. The runners will sit atop the belt that you just placed into the strut’s groove, holding it in place.

The tensioner came assembled, so disassemble and lay at the ready.

Take the gear and slot the belt into it so that the belt’s teeth interface with the gear.

Stretch the belt out and slide the ends with the brass crimps into the metal slots.

Once the belt is clipped in, attach the casing for the tensioner using the screws.

• M4x16 screw x2

Now that the whole x-axis arm is complete, you can slide it onto the struts. It won’t go down very far at first.

You must make sure that the anti-backlash nut is in place. It has two “wings” on either side, and one of these will fit into a slotted groove on the X-axis strut.

• M3x8 x2 screws (#18)

Using the provided screws, connect the metal baffle so that the long end faces down.

This part is pretty easy, though you may have to press apart (or together) the struts with a small amount of manual force to get the top beam to slot into place. The beam is plastic, not metal like with the Ender 3, but it’s heavy-duty plastic and I don’t find that it’s a compromise that bothers me overall.

• M5x16 x4 (#24)

The screen kit installs easily into the front of the printer, and you can connect the cable immediately. Having the screen already screwed down might make adjusting the levelling knobs a little difficult later on, but not terribly so, especially if you have smaller hands.

This is the switch that tells the printer when the x-axis arm hits its lowest point. Before screwing it into place, you’ll absolutely need to connect the cable. This makes it a little finicky, as aligning the cable through the slot in the cover, connecting the plastic bits, and screwing it down all felt a little difficult. An unwary person might accidentally snap the plastic lock on the bottom, too.

Just take your time, be careful, and it will go smoothly.

None of the wires have corresponding markers, which is extremely weird, but it’s also not that hard to figure out which ones go where just based on the size of the cable connector heads and the lengths of the cables themselves. Don’t try pulling any cables longer than they already are, and you’ll be fine.

The filament holder screws right into the top beam, easy as pie.

Now, this part was not well described in the instruction manual, though I could see that the manual designer meant well by including this. Basically, you use the included toolkit box to make sure that the x-axis arm is level, and you ensure the level by loosening and tightening certain screws and bolts.

Note that the bolts don’t have a maximum “tight” position! They move between loose and tight, depending on the position of a little dot bored into the bolt’s metal. If the dot is facing toward the nearest strut, it’s in its tightest state. If the little dot is facing away, it’s in its loosest state. Play with it, and it will quickly make sense just by feel.

I really wish, for the sake of less-experienced enthusiasts, that this whole section was clearer, as it provides a bit of a stumbling block for anyone not used to DIY kit printers.

There are two Teflon tubes. The long one attached to the printer head, and a short one that comes with the kit. Unclip the blue fastener already attached to the filament injector, then slide in the long Teflon tube’s end. Re-clip the blue fastener in place to hold it together.

On the other side of the printer, press in the short length of Teflon tubing—this acts as a feeder for the filament as it is brought into the injector component.

Tie down the excess cables, but make sure to leave some room on either end—this cable should not be too tight anywhere, and this tie is just to keep it out of the way.

Lubricating the driver screw will ensure that the printer runs more smoothly.

The print head will likely have a little wobble at first, so just use the included wrench to adjust the eccentric nut until the wobble goes away.

Press on the print bed with your hand. If you feel a wobble, you need to adjust the two eccentric nuts beneath the build plate. Remember, these don’t have a “maximum” tight state, but oscillate between loose and tight. Go slowly, and you’ll quickly figure out what feels right.

Before you can use your new Kobra Go 3D printer, you will want to level it, make sure to read our easy levelling guide before trying to use your printer for prints. Then check out our guide for loading filament and preparing for your first print which will take all the guesswork out of the process for you.

Leveling the Kobra Go is relatively easy, as its auto-leveling function does much of the work for you, but if you fail to run this step you’ll find your prints coming out pretty wonky.

But, otherwise, your new printer is ready to go!

The Kobra Go is easy enough to put together, though perhaps slightly more complex than the Ender 3 v2 kit printer. Especially for those following the stock directions, and for those without prior experience putting together a DIY kit printer, this would be a big project.

What makes this a powerful contender to Creality’s Ender 3 v2 is the automatic levelling procedure that the Kobra series offers. Aligning the Kobra beforehand is a bit of a pain, but once it’s ready, the auto-levelling feature makes it absurdly easy to get your print bed ready for projects.

Who is the Kobra Go for?

You want the Kobra Go if you’re experienced at putting together kit printers and want something that’s easy to assemble for your skill level, that also provides automatic levelling and produces high-quality prints. The Kobra Go would be a reasonable choice for beginners new to the world of 3D printing, as long as they have a lot of patience, the end result (a kit 3D printer with automatic levelling) is definitely worth it.

Booking your location is the first hurdle when it comes to tabling. When you’re first starting out, it’s best to go more local and smaller. That way, you can get your bearings and practice for larger events. You’ll also want to consider your target audience and product that you will be selling. If what you’ve made is more anime/comic/gaming-centric, then you might want to look into local conventions in your state on those topics. If you have more general crafted goods, then looking into local farmer’s markets and craft fairs are your best bet.

In essence, figuring out where you want to table will usually boil down to two primary questions:

1. What are the fees/expenses to sign up?
2. How far away is it?

Most conventions and vendor fairs will have some paperwork to fill out and will offer you a spot with a fee at sign-up. Depending on the popularity and/or mass of the event (i.e. is this New York Comic Con or your local farmer’s market?), the fee for your spot can vary anywhere between $10 to as high as $200. Some conventions and fairs may also give you the option to pick your spot. If this is the case, then tables that are either on the endcaps of aisles or are by main entryways usually tend to go for a bit more in price since these are optimal spots to make sales. If you want to sign up for one of these spots, you will most likely have to hop on sign-ups early. If you want to save a bit of money and don’t mind being down an aisle, then go for a regular spot. It’s also important to fully read the initial sign-up paperwork in order to get a full grasp on set-up times, parking, what your spot includes, and break-down times. It’s also worth noting how long the event is running (is it only for one day from a set time or does it last over the entire weekend?) in order to prepare properly.

Distance is another key factor when considering where to table. Consider travel and potentially boarding costs if the convention/fair lasts for several days when weighing your options. A good formula to keep in mind is this:

Table fees + ((total distance in miles ÷ your vehicle’s miles per gallon) x average gas prices) + lodging/hotel costs if applicable = the total cost of the event.

For example, let’s say I booked a table for $50 at a convention that was roughly 65 miles away and only lasting one day so I wouldn’t have to pay for a hotel. My car gets about 30 MPG (Google the average MPG for the make/model/year of your vehicle) and gas prices around me are currently at $3.96 USD. So, the average cost of my theoretical convention would be 50 + ((65 ÷ 30) x 3.96). This would roughly come out to $58.60. If I haven’t spent anything further on materials to bring, then that would be the price I would set for myself to beat in order to net profit. Even if I only made $58, I would consider that breaking even for me and would walk away from the event knowing that I might get potential clients or get signed on for other events in the future.

Quick tip: always fully read the convention’s Rules and Regulations section on their website or pamphlets! These sections will always list what is expected of each vendor, spot pricing, check-in/check-out times, display regulations, and venue policies.

Piggybacking off of the last topic, creating a general budget for yourself is incredibly important not just for tabling but also for starting your own small business. Figuring out the investment that you’re putting into your work will ultimately affect how you will price your goods.

For example, I’ve recently been selling art prints, copies of my poetry collections, and stickers when I table. If I am creating the art prints at home, I am usually investing in a 25 page pack of giclee paper and Canon ink to make my prints on my Canon Pixma TR4720, which means I will be spending around $60 USD in order to make products to sell. I know that I can get around 35-36 color printed pages out of my printer before needing another ink cartridge, and I usually need a couple extra pages to make a test print or two. So, at best, I’ll probably be making 20 8″x10″ prints per package of paper. Going back to the previous example, if theoretically the cost of my trip was roughly $60 and the cost I spent on materials to create product was also around $60, then I’m looking to push past $120 to break even. At $10 per 8″x10″ print, I would not only be breaking even, but I’d also be netting some profit for the time spent creating those pieces.

This example is, of course, excluding first time costs. By this, I mean the cost of purchasing a table, tablecloth, and display materials. Some fairs and events won’t provide you with a table, so you will need to bring one yourself. The prices on these items can vary, but that’s why creating a budget for yourself will help give you an idea of what to look for. Keeping a running expense chart can also help you keep track of your overall investment you’ve made so far. Personally, I use a template on Google Sheets to calculate and keep track of my expenses. I also keep another two spreadsheets tracking the sum total of my book and art sales. That way, I can reference between my profits and expenditures to see where I’m at each month.

Considering what to bring will be based on your table setup and the length of the event you’re attending. My recommended essentials list is as follows:

1. Your merchandise, obviously. However, ideally, you’ll want to try to bring at least enough merchandise so that if you completely sold out of it, you’d earn double your expenses.
2. Some way to track your inventory. Again, spreadsheets are your best friend! Whether you’re keeping track digitally or physically, tracking your earnings and stock during your event will help with knowing what was popular and sold well later.
3. Change. I usually bring $100 USD in $1’s and $5’s.
4. Money box/fanny pack. You’re going to need a way to not only make change, but also keep cash earned. I like keeping my earning close to me, so a fanny pack usually works great, especially for one day events. However, if you want to leave your table without carrying a money pouch around or are attending a longer event, a lockbox might be something worth looking into.
5. A table (if needed). I highly recommend a foldable table with a handle for easy pack up and maneuvering.
6. A pop-up canopy (if you’re outside). If you’re at an outdoor event, then sitting in the sun all day could not only be rough on you, but could also cause sun damage on any of the products you’re selling. Customers also like a bit of shade while they’re browsing. Pop up canopies are perfect for these events, but make sure you’re allowed to bring one prior to the event.
7. A tablecloth. As far as table coverings go, I’ve seen vendors with plain tablecloths to super fancy ones with their branding embroidered on the front. The design is up to you. However, I recommend making sure your tablecloth is around 90″x132″ or at least long enough for it to fall to the floor and hide your belongings.
8. A card reader. I’ll be breaking this down in the last key point of this guide, but effectively, you’ll want to offer some way of taking the card. Many vendors these days, including myself, use Square due to the general ease of the device/service and the ability to log transactions even if you lose Wi-Fi.
9. A portable battery pack. These power banks are a lifesaver! Events tend to be long, and you don’t want to be caught with 10% left on your devices (especially if you’re using your phone for the card reader you brought!).
10. Art portfolio (for example prints). Most artist vendors I see always have one or two art binders at the front of their table with examples of their work inside. This is a great way for customers to get a gist of what you do and what your artwork looks like!
11. Adequate signage. Decorate your table with concise signage in regard to prices, products, and your socials. Even though some customers will still ask you about prices, having signage around your table will help funnel questions better.
12. Sleeves for merchandise. Make sure you have some form of protective sleeve or bag to package your merchandise in before handing it off to the customer!
13. Business cards or QR code. Business cards with your shop name, website, and/or socials are great ways to garner new clients. If you want to save some money in terms of printing costs, however, I have also seen vendors put up a sign with a QR code that links to their online shop and information.
14. A banner or grid cubes. Although I have seen many artists use photo backdrops to display their work, I recommend using gridding cubes when starting out for a budget-friendly option that is easy to pack up and break down. Also, make sure to bring a method of hanging or displaying your work (binder clips, clamps, double-sided tape, etc.)!
15. Snacks and water. Events are long. Make sure to bring snacks and stay hydrated!
16. Emergency supply pack. I like to call this my “Everything Else Bag.” In this, you’ll want to bring Scotch tape, scissors, pens, markers/sharpies, Band-Aids, painkillers, a calculator, extension cords, extra binder clips, extra paper clips, etc.
17. Garbage bags. Just trust me on this. There will be garbage cans provided by the venue scattered about, but it’s easier to keep a garbage bag under your table than constantly getting up to find one.
18. A copy of your tax certificate or seller’s permit. Some states require a seller’s permit, and many convention websites will address what they will need in terms of legal paperwork from you. If you’re unsure of whether or not your state requires this OR you’re traveling to another state that requires one, I highly suggest you look into the venue’s needs well before the event. Also, if you’re making enough business with your freelance shop or plan to continue tabling for profit, you will eventually have to work this into your taxes. If you’ve kept all of your receipts from your expenses and a spreadsheet with your monthly/yearly budget, you may be able to write certain business expenses off on your annual taxes. Again, tax forms may vary from state-to-state, so if you’re unsure of where to start, I suggest researching this in advanced or consulting a professional.
19. A friend/co-hustler. Most events will allow you to have two chairs, which means fill that extra chair with another butt! Having a friend to help with transactions, packing, keep you company, and manage the table while you run to the bathroom, etc., makes the day way easier and enjoyable.
20. A big smile! Bring your sense of humor and a friendly grin! Not only does your attitude affect how your day will go, but nobody will want to bother with someone who looks like a sour-puss.

How you display your goods is key to making sales! This means making sure your set up is clean, professional, and eye-catching. Many vendors will decorate their tables with pastel or fun colors (that aren’t too overwhelming), small decorative signage, a theme, and have organized in a way that the display of their products have a certain flow to them. Keeping products neatly in their respective categories with pricing for the items in that section helps to draw the customer’s eye around your entire table!

Many vendors and artists will also have some sort of banner that displays their shop name and/or logo as well. Having a banner helps grab the attention of potential customers and clearly states your shop name to the crowd. I suggest either having your banner hang over the front of your table or hanging somewhere above your head on either a backdrop or on your grid cubes. I know many vendors/artists also recommend having some sort of backdrop, but if you’re just starting out or can’t afford a photography backdrop, you can still get this effect with grid cubes as well. The reason vendors recommend enclosing your space in some form of way is so that it gives the feeling of being in a small store and really draws attention to your products. Creating a small space to show off your wares is far more eye-catching than having a couple stands on a table with the entire event open behind you.

For example, common grid setup I’ve used and have seen at artist alleys have looked something like this:

I’ve also seen other vendors get this effect or make their own backdrop with PVC piping. How you arrange/display your products, what signage for pricing you’re using, and what else will be freestanding on your table is entirely up to you! I also recommend making a mock setup at home so that you can figure out how everything flows together before the day of the event. Check out this guide for more a more in depth look on how to set up grids!

Aside from your display, how you market your items will make a huge difference in sales. Having some freebies (business cards/bookmarks/candy/etc. or a holding raffle are great ways to get customers to come back to your table or keep your business in the back of their mind. Make sure to have ample freebies and signage of your socials/website around for easy grabbing and viewing!

As far as pricing goes, after calculating the time and materials put into your works, deciding what prices you’ll set at the event can help you plot out what sales tactics you’ll want to consider. Many vendors will run a percentage off sale on certain items or some form of bo-go sale to incentivize customers to purchase in bulk. Customers may feel more inclined to purchase if your sale price is a dollar or two cheaper than that you commission or sell online.

Some common pricing and sale techniques I’ve seen online and across various events are as follows:

• 5×7″ prints: ~$5
• 8×10″ prints: ~$10 or ~3/$25
• 11×17″ prints: ~$15 or ~2/$25
• Acrylic charms (single sided): $5-$12 (I’ve seen Buy-One-Get-One-Half on certain charms)
• Acrylic charms (double sided): $8-$20 (Same as above)
• Acrylic standees: $5-$15 depending on size
• Buttons: $1-3 (often with a Buy-Two-Get-One Free sale)
• Enamel Pins: $8-$15
• Stickers: $1-$4 depending on size (often paired with varying Bo-Go sales)
• Holographic/fancy/large stickers: $4-$5ish.
• Washi tape: $4-$5ish per roll
• Jewelry: Can go anywhere between $3-$30 depending on what it is and the materials used. If you want to sale particular jewelry items, perhaps consider a % off sale.
• Handmade Plushies: $5-$40 depending on size and craftsmanship
• Books are usually sold 3x more than the cost it takes to print
• Apparel and other larger items can vary in price depending on initial investment. I recommend doing further research when it comes to selling apparel.

In addition to working out your pricing and sales, you also should consider these marketing techniques:

1. Price in whole numbers to make checkout easy and be sure to include sales tax!
2. Provide variety over quantity. Stick to the golden rule of 10 copies of each item, but have a variety of items (possibly 10-30 different items). Having too many copies of too few items will often leave you with piles of copies that didn’t sell. If you do sell out of a particular item, you can always make a note of what you’ll need more for future events.
3. Talk to your fellow vendors. Talking to your table neighbors is a great way of networking, can help pass the time, and give you more ideas for your own business in the future.
4. Your mindset: Try to keep as concise but professional as possible. You’re here as a seller and should keep casual chatter polite, friendly, and under three minutes per customer. Getting used to talking to customers and promoting yourself can take time and practice, but don’t give up! Try complimenting a cosplayer (“Wow! I love [insert character here]! You look great!”) or open with a question (“How are you liking the convention/fair/event so far?”). Be sure to always look up and greet your customers with a smile!

Lastly, offering multiple checkout methods for easy payment is essential for good business. Ideally, you want the transaction to be as smooth as possible on both ends. Having multiple checkout options will also incentivize your customers to spend since they won’t have to jump through any hoops in order to pay you. When I table, I use the following payment methods:

1. Square card reader for Visa, Mastercard, Discover, and American Express
2. My Venmo QR code readily available or one a sign for online payments
3. And cash!

If you don’t have a Venmo, you can either sign up for free or list your Paypal email. Either way, it’s best to have some form of mobile payment in case customers don’t have anything else on hand. Again, try and make the check out process as seamless as possible. With some hard work, dedication, and a bit of sales knowledge and experience, you’ll get the hang of tabling in no time!