There are no fancy tricks to the Moka pot. Its made of 3 parts, a base which holds water, a funnel filter which holds coffee grounds, and the top which holds your brewed coffee.

Water heats up and creates steam which is then forced through the coffee grounds and up into the reservoir. It is filtered on the way so you only get delicious liquid and no grounds.

Ok on with the instructions.

Filling the funnel filter is a good way to eyeball how much coffee you will need. This need not be exact.

You want a fine grind, but not quite as fine as the standard espresso grind since this uses a much lower pressure.

Some people like to gently scrape the top with their finger like one might do for an espresso machine. Its worth a try but I find that a mound carefully distributed works just as well.

The brass nut indicates the max fill level. Fill up to there or just under.

Carefully place the filter in the base. Then, using a rag or oven mitt, screw the top onto the base as tight as you can. Make sure you’re holding onto the bulk of the pot and not the handle when doing this step.

High heat is usually what you need. If you find that the coffee bursts up rather quickly, then its likely too hot. On the other hand, if it takes a long time and very slowly gurgles forth, you might want it a bit hotter.

Leave the top open so you can see the action.

You should see rich, dark brown coffee coming from the spout. This all happens pretty quickly, but it will get progressively lighter in color as the seconds pass. As soon as you see a golden yellow honey color, usually accompanied by sputtering, its time to remove from heat.

This stops the extraction as quickly as possible. If you skip this step, the coffee in the reservoir will continue to heat and extract, resulting in bitter and metallic flavors.

This is a good excuse to wash your whole car 😉

Use the most normal toothpaste you can find. The only reason this works is because toothpaste is a mild abrasive. If it has special whitening or other nonsense, it won’t work as well.

Using as much elbow grease as you can, scrub the headlight. Add toothpaste if it becomes too dry.

Using water and a dry cloth, wash and dry your headlight. The oxidation layer is known to come back every once in a while so you may need to repeat the process.

Remove the wheel containing the defeated tube. It may be advantageous to start by placing the bicycle within a home repair stand, held securely by the seatpost. Many types of brakes can be easily released to aid in tire repair, so be sure to disengage the brake, if necessary.

Most modern wheels remove by means of Quick-Release (QR) skewers, pictured here, which pass entirely through the hubs, and have open and closed positions to secure them to the frame.

To remove the wheel, flip the lever to the “open” position. Hold the non-drive side nut of the skewer as you turn the lever counter-clockwise to loosen. Oftentimes, the wheel can be removed without completely unthreading the skewer.

Note the orientation of the two springs and skewer (it enters from the non-drive side) for ease of reinstallation.

Many other wheels will use a bolt-on standard, usually a 15mm bolt on a threaded axle. Use a 15mm or adjustable wrench to remove these axle bolts by turning them counter-clockwise.

Some higher-end bicycles have wheels that connect by means of a thru-axle (TA) system. Like QR skewers, Thru-Axles run internally through the entire length of the hub. Thru Axles, however, thread into a special sleeve built into the fork or frame dropout. Removing these is as simple as turning the TA anti-clockwise, although each manufacturer may have special instructions.

Using the tire levers, unseat the bead of the tire by running the lever along the inside of the rim. With the first bead unseated, repeat the process to remove the second bead off of the rim. Examine the outside for the cause of failure.

The bead is the part of the tire designed to hold the tire to the rim. For more about this step, see how to replace a bicycle tube.

After looking around the outside, remove the tube from inside the tire. Run your fingers lightly along the inside, checking for any sharp spines or staples. BE CAREFUL! THESE CAN BE VERY SHARP AND CUT YOUR HAND.

If you are having difficulty finding the hole, lightly inflate it and check by submerging under water. Escaping air bubbles will point to the puncture. Once you have found the problem, use a metallic sharpie to mark the area.

Using the sandpaper, lightly scuff the area surrounding the puncture. Be sure to scuff an area larger than the patch being applied.

Apply the tube cement and smear it evenly over the scuffed area using a clean finger, or foil edge of the patch. Make sure to spread enough to cover the entire affected area.

This may take up to 10 minutes. It’s a little too wet in the picture, so let it dry a bit longer.

Choose an appropriately sized patch so as to completely cover the affected area. Remove the foil backing from the patch. Leaving on the transparent plastic covering, place the patch over the area, pressing the tube and patch together.

Holding firmly between your thumb and forefinger, apply moderate pressure while holding the patch in place. This should take about 5 minutes. Leave the transparent plastic film on as it will help to resist abrasion.

Pump up your tube a small amount, just enough to give it shape. Place the lightly-inflated tube within the tire. Using only your hands, roll the beads of the tire (one at a time) onto the rim until the tire is properly seated. Take care to install tires with the proper direction of rotation, when applicable. An arrow indicating direction of rotation can be found on the bike tire itself.

Once seated, pump up the tube slowly to the desired pressure, checking for irregularities in the tire. If either bead is not seating properly within the rim, deflate the tube, lubricate the beads of the tire with some soapy water, and reattempt inflation.

Using your wheels’ chosen standard of axle binding, tighten by turning clockwise.

If using a QR skewer, hold the drive side nut while turning the lever clockwise. Close the lever from the open to closed position, ensuring that the clamping action secures the wheel within the frame.

After the bicycle has been sitting for 15 minutes or so, use the air pump to check the inflation pressure of the tire. If it is the same, test ride the bicycle a short distance and then re-check the pressure. If it shows no signs of loss, it’s good to go!

Using a level (digital is better, but spirit will do), determine the initial angle of the setup.

Precision is not so important here. With the bike on a level surface, determine whether the saddle sits level, nose up, or nose down, and the degree to which it is so. Take note of how the height of the handlebars relative to the saddle.

Using a 6mm allen key, turn anticlockwise to loosen the saddle binder-bolt on the underside of the seatpost. Loosen it enough to allow the hardware to be moved around, but do not completely unthread it.

Using the level as your guide, move the saddle angle as close to level as you can get.

When in doubt, err on the side of the initial angle measurement, i.e. if saddle nose was initially higher, keep the final angle with a slight nose-up tilt as well.

If the handlebars sit high above the saddle, a nose-up saddle should work best. If the handlebars sit low relative to the saddle, a nose down saddle may be preferred.

With the angle decided, tighten the bolt by turning the 6mm allen key clockwise, ensuring that the proper angle is maintained as it is clamped.

In extreme cases, the angle of the saddle can have a noticeable effect on the height of the seatpost. In case of any adjustment, it is always a good idea to test the equipment afterwards, and to allow time for the rider to adapt to the change.

Should you need to, you can adjust the seatpost height by use of the seatpost binder (5mm bolt or quick-release).

If you have questions about this, see my guide on how to adjust seatpost height! Take care!

You can find the downloads on GitHub

wget https://sourceforge.net/projects/cmusphinx/files/sphinxbase/5prealpha/sphinxbase-5prealpha.tar.gz/download -O sphinxbase.tar.gz

wget https://sourceforge.net/projects/cmusphinx/files/pocketsphinx/5prealpha/pocketsphinx-5prealpha.tar.gz/download -O pocketsphinx.tar.gz

tar -xzvf sphinxbase.tar.gz tar -xzvf pocketsphinx.tar.gz

sudo apt-get install bison libasound2-dev swig

cd sphinxbase-5prealpha ./configure --enable-fixed make sudo make install

cd ../pocketsphinx-5prealpha ./configure make sudo make install

src/programs/pocketsphinx_continuous -samprate 48000

This is located in Applications > Utilities

sudo discoveryutil udnsflushcaches